Friday, February 21, 2014
Poplar Bowl and Art Project Update
I decided to go down to the shop for a couple of hours this morning to continue work on the poplar bowl and begin completing one of the art show pieces. Off to work we go:
Poplar bowl
Youll remember from last time that the surface of the bowl needed more work. Looking at it after the first coat of varnish dried showed that the surface was scratched from sanding and the end grain areas had a lot of pitting and crushed grain fibers. This needed to be corrected before proceeding with the rest of the varnish application so I took it down to the shop and put it back on the lathe.
I began sanding the inside with 120 grit sandpaper and 900 rpm. While the bowl is spinning I drag the sandpaper across the surface of the walls of the bowl very slowly and from the inside of the bowl to the edge of the bowl wall. I dont press hard on the sandpaper either, instead I just let the weight of my hand press down on the paper. The point here is to very gently shave the surface of the wood to remove any crushed grain and reduce the pitting on the surface. I went from 120 - 600 grit paper and this produced a smooth, shiny surface that was ready for another application of varnish:
Here is the bowl after its been sanded:
And while I was doing this I gave the coffee wood bowl another coat of salad bowl varnish too:
Both bowls will require another 1-2 coats of varnish before theyre done so stay tuned for more photos. The poplar bowl will be re-mounted on the lathe after Im done varnishing it so I can clean up the underside of the foot. So it has a little more time in the shop before its done.
Apple wood box
After looking at the apple wood box, I decided not to turn it any more but to instead sand it and get it ready for finishing and thats what I did. Here is a photo of the lid on the lathe:
The box portion presents a different challenge as the surface is comprised of both solid wood and tree bark. I didnt want to accidently knock off any of the bark so I placed the box on the lathe and locked the lathe in place and hand sanded it. I used 120-400 grit paper on this and I got it really smooth without damaging it:
Its now ready for a finish to be applied. For this Im going to use a spray lacquer so as to get the finish applied evening to the surface and into all of the nooks and crannies on the bark areas:
Heres the lid after one coat of lacquer:
And here is the box. Ill continue to use spray lacquer for several coats and then Ill take it off the lathe and gently polish the surface by hand:
While the above pieces are making their way through the finishing process, Ill continue working on the art pieces. The next project will be working on the black ash tea box. More about that tomorrow.
VW
Monday, February 10, 2014
This weekends project
Thursday, January 30, 2014
Woodshop project ideas for beginners
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Wednesday, January 29, 2014
Gun vise/woodshop project plans
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Saturday, January 25, 2014
Update Christmas decor and Door project
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Ill show you how Im using them next week, but you can probably guess that at least some of it will be going on the tree!
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We also worked on the door project. Still very ugly, but I am hopeful!
Ill be back Monday with an update!
It is supposed to be rainy for the next few days, so looks like it might be an inside projects kinda weekend.
Hope you have a great weekend!
Friday, January 24, 2014
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Thursday, January 23, 2014
NOVO PROJECTO NEW PROJECT – ARTIS IGNIS
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Block Project Finished For Now
So Teagues blocks are finished - I was aiming for 50 and ended up having time for 46. Not too bad.
Theyre unit blocks, with the basic block having 1x2x2 dimensions. Making these blocks, and their larger siblings, was pretty straight forward - just dimensioning the stock really (well except for a few of the "special" shaped blocks), but it was fun practice.
The width of the stock is very close to the final width of 2 inches, so after planing off the finish (they are old library chairs) it doesnt take much more work to get there with just a jack plane. The thickness is another matter - too much to remove with the jack, and too little to resaw - well, I suppose if I really wanted some thin oak veneer...
I tried my scrub plane, but wasnt happy with the results. Just too much tear out to get close to the layout line. I switched to a #6 fore plane with a fairly cambered iron. It was the right tool for the job, fast, but clean, stock removal. Heres a shot showing two pieces of oak - the right is the "before" and the left is the "after" example.
After the fore plane got things close, it was quick work with the jack to finish removing stock down to the line. It was a little wasteful, but a definite time saver.
I tried to take a picture of the fore plane iron to show the amount of camber:
Heres a shot of work on one pair of ramp blocks:
I had to leave extra wood at the ends to adjust for the kerf and flattening of the angled plane. After everything was true, I cut the ends square and to length. I experimented with several different saws for cutting the angle and ended up liking the Japanese style rip saw the best.
I had anticipated having to do a lot of work with a plane to clean up the cut, but in the end it came out pretty clean straight from the saw. Just a few minutes with the plane, and it was fine.
Chamfering the edges of the blocks was much easier by pulling them over an upside down plane - once again the jack was pressed into service:
The final test of the set before the birthday boy got his hands on them (what can I say, theyre fun!):
In action - I think he liked them, and the chest too:
Im sure I will be making more to expand the set as time goes by and his construction skills grow.